Waking to the rush of water at Thea Falls (Montenegro Falls across the Angolan side) set the tone for a day where distance is measured in hours, not kilometres. The plan: refuel at Okongwati, thread Heartbreak Hill, tackle Van Zyl’s Pass, cross the Marienfluss, tag the Red Drum, then work over Jan Joubert’s Pass to reach Marble Campsite before nightfall.

From Thea Falls to Okongwati: top up or turn back

Rule one for remote Africa: if you see fuel, you fill – gauge be damned. Okongwati’s emergency fuel isn’t guaranteed. Container fuel can be costly (we saw 40 litres at R1,370), but self‑sufficiency out here is non‑negotiable.  Along the way we passed small Himba settlements – red otjize for sun protection and tradition – and a sobering sight: Makalani palms being tapped for wine, a practice that ultimately kills these iconic trees.

Heartbreak Hill: 440 metres of attitude

Part of the D3707 (calling it a road is generous), Heartbreak Hill is a steep boulder field notorious for breaking vehicles. We cleared it one by one and pushed to the Van Zyl’s Pass campsite on a dry riverbed—seven hours after leaving Okongwati.

Van Zyl’s Pass: respect required

A rock strike bent a steel rim; a quick bush fix and we rolled on. Soon after, a puncture was changed fast thanks to many hands. At the rock pile marking the start, overlanders leave their names before walking to the vantage above the Marienfluss. Descent rule: as slow as possible, as fast as necessary. On the valley floor, remember: no camping is permitted in the Marienfluss.

Red Drum to Marble: markers, passes, and stonemen

South of Hartmann’s Valley the Red Drum—originally a fuel stash left by Ben van Zyl—still marks the route. Jan Joubert’s (Yub’s) Pass isn’t highly technical, but a lapse can slice a sidewall. We spotted a lone stoneman sculpture and visited the old marble mine, where costly blocks still lie due to transport economics. At Marble Campsite, one damaged tyre refused repair—exactly why serious overlanders carry two spares on this route.

Reflections from Marble Campsite

This stage tested vehicles, teamwork, and judgement—reinforcing preparation, self‑sufficiency, and calm communication. From Thea Falls to the Marienfluss and out to Marble, the Kaokoveld rewards those who respect its scale and travel prepared.

Trail‑tested Gear & Prep

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