From Puros to Palmwag: The Final Leg of a Kaokoveld Adventure
Every great expedition must come to an end, but the final leg of our Kaokoveld adventure was packed with as much challenge, beauty, and discovery as the first. This is the story of our journey from Marble Camp to Palmwag, a route that took us through remote conservancies, rugged riverbeds, and landscapes that leave a permanent mark on your soul. For those who live for the thrill of discovery and the hum of a 4×4 engine on a remote track, this is a testament to why we do what we do.
Our journey had already been an epic one, from the thundering power of Ruacana Falls to the technical challenge of Van Zyl’s Pass. But the adventure was far from over. In this final chapter, we pushed further south, navigating the Kumib and Hoanib Rivers, encountering desert-adapted wildlife, and piecing together the story of this incredible land through its unique landmarks. This is a narrative of resilience, community, and the raw, untamed beauty of Namibia.
The Journey from Marble Camp
Leaving the stunning Marble Campsite, we pointed our convoy towards Orupembe, a remote settlement in the northern Kunene region. This area is part of the Orupembe Conservancy, a protected area spanning over 3,500 square kilometres. It’s a vital habitat for an array of wildlife, including giraffe, kudu, oryx, and mountain zebra. It wasn’t long before we were rewarded with a breathtaking sight: one of the largest herds of springbok I have ever seen, a reminder of the life that thrives in this arid environment.
As we continued south, our treasure hunt for the Kaokoveld’s mysterious stonemen resumed. These sculptures, created by an anonymous artist using the pseudonym “Renn,” have been appearing since 2014. Each numbered piece has a short message, turning any trip through this region into an engaging quest. Finding them adds another layer of purpose to the drive.
Navigating the Kumib River Trail
Our route soon led us into the Kumib River Trail, a path that offers both interesting driving and dramatic scenery. The riverbed is a lifeline in this dry landscape, and we found an abundance of giraffe enjoying its resources. The trail is also home to the Euphorbia damarana, commonly known as the milk bush. Regarded as one of the most toxic plants in Namibia. Its milky latex is potent enough to be lethal to most animals and even humans, with the notable exceptions of the rhino and oryx.
Deep in the riverbed, we stumbled upon Stoneman #10. It was here that our cameraman, Gustav, had a heart-stopping moment when his drone crashed into a hill. Fortunately, the damage was minor, and our journey continued. As any experienced traveller knows, no expeditionary force marches on an empty stomach. We took a well-deserved lunch break before making our way towards Puros.
The descent into the Puros Valley is one of the most beautiful sights in the region. To reach the village, you must cross the river, which had flooded five times during the recent rainy season. Our destination for the next two nights was the Puros Bush Lodge and Camp, a personal favourite and a perfect base for exploring the area.
Life in the Puros Conservancy
The Puros Conservancy is famous for its desert-adapted elephants, black rhinos, giraffes, and elusive desert lions. It’s a place where you feel truly connected to the wild. While in the village, we took the opportunity to resupply. If you ask around, you can find almost anything you need. A visit to the landmark Green Manchester stores is a must. We found both diesel and petrol – at a price, of course – and even a reasonably well-stocked bottle store.
With supplies secured, it was time to explore. The Hoarusib River is worth dedicating time to. High water levels prevented us from reaching the Puros Canyon, but other landmarks awaited, including the Jan Joubert se kopje. Jan Joubert was a true pioneer, a renowned conservationist and 4×4 expert who mapped many of the routes we use today. His legacy is an integral part of this region’s history.
Of course, when you find a dune, you have to drive it. Using existing tracks to preserve the delicate environment, we tested our vehicles on a dune that was much steeper than it appeared. It’s moments like these that define the spirit of overlanding.
Later, a distress call came over the radio. Our tag-along guests, who we had said goodbye to earlier, had become well and truly stuck in the riverbed. Uncle Jim, on his way to assist, also got stuck. Our team rushed over to perform the recovery, and our new friends rejoined us for the remainder of the trip. It was another tough, yet rewarding, day in Africa.
The Hoanib River and the Road to Palmwag
From Puros, we headed further south towards the Hoanib River. The scenery was mind-blowing. We spotted fresh lion tracks in the sand, a thrilling and sobering discovery. Unbeknownst to us at the time, these tracks belonged to a lone female who, just a few weeks later, was involved in a tragic incident. It’s a stark reminder that we are visitors in a truly wild place.
As we entered the Giribes Plains, known for its thousands of unexplained fairy circles, we encountered another mechanical issue on the Hilux. A quick roadside fix had us on our way again. The harsh terrain was beginning to take its toll, and during our lunch stop, we assisted Uncle Jim with a brake problem.
Our route took us to a viewpoint known as “Die Poort” (The Portal). Treacherous quicksand made the direct route a no-go, as Francois quickly discovered. We rerouted into the Ganamub River and found an incredible wild camping spot, which we promptly named “Bobbejaan Kop” (Baboon’s Head) after a rock formation spotted by Fana. With leopard tracks just around the corner, it was one of the most memorable wild camps of the entire trip.
The exit from the river the next morning was nothing short of spectacular. We soon encountered our last stoneman of the trip, Number Four, “The Hanging Man.” Our next stop was Elephant Song Campsite, perched on a hill overlooking the Hoanib Valley. The heat was intense, so we took a lunch break down in the valley before enjoying the camp’s amazing ablutions. The Hoanib River is a must-see, a place so beautiful that words fail to do it justice.
The Final Stretch
All too soon, we were on the main road heading towards Sesfontein to stock up on basics. From there, we made our way to the Ongongo Waterfall. The road to reach it is not the best, but the reward is a swim in another one of this region’s natural gems. As we drove the final stretch towards Palmwag, a sense of sadness crept in. Our incredible adventure was almost over.
That night, we all had dinner together at the restaurant, sharing stories and celebrating the journey. This has been one of the best adventures ever, a true test of man and machine. It reaffirmed our passion for exploration and the deep bonds forged on the trail.
This journey is a reminder that the world is full of remote, rugged, and beautiful places waiting to be explored. You just need a reliable vehicle, the right gear, and a spirit of adventure.
Trail‑tested Gear & Prep
- Recovery, correctly rated: T‑Max Recovery Gear — flagship: T‑Max 12,500 XPower Winch
- Tyre & traction: e.g. T‑Max Portable Air Compressor
- Ride & control upgrades: Old Man Emu Suspension
- 12V power management: REDARC (landing) / REDARC SmartChargers
- Cold chain: Engel Fridge Freezers — flagship: Engel 80L MTV
- Load carrying: Desert Roof Racks
- Vehicle protection: ARB Bull Bars
- Overland platforms: Alu‑Cab canopies, RTTs & campers
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